So if you read part 1 you would have seen that my current progress with the Dàofěi up to now was like this:
However I wasn’t really satisfied with it or where it was going…
It’s okay to make mistakes
Sometimes with painting, things just don’t go as planned, maybe you didn’t like the colour scheme or maybe you screwed up a certain part of the model beyond redemption. Maybe you wanted to do something different or maybe you just weren’t happy with the direction the model was taking. In my case that happened with the Dàofěi, I wasn’t really happy with where I had put the red and wasn’t happy with the turquoise braid so I decided to start again. I don’t like to put too many layers of paint on the model so didn’t really fancy trying to cover up the mistakes out of fear of losing detail. I don’t have the photo but it was also my first time trying to paint a cool sword but it epicly failed, so into the dettol he went!
If you’re not happy with your paint scheme it’s best to catch it early and start again before you put too much effort in, painting is all about learning and it’s okay to make mistakes. Don’t let mistakes or bad paint jobs discourage you, keep trying and learn from the mistakes you have made and it WILL make you a better painter!
When I paint stripped the Dàofěi I had the joy of snapping the braid too, whoops! Snapping parts of your model…every miniature lovers worst nightmare. It was a real pain but I managed to get it back on by drilling a hole in the back of his head and green stuffing/gluing the braid into the hole. Seems good for now!
Getting back on track
Since the Dàofěi fiasco I decided to paint other models for awhile and really learn some new techniques. This included using a wet palette for the first time and also learning how to paint swords using various tutorials and videos online. The wet palette was definitely the biggest game changer and improved my painting dramatically! (see the pics of my Monks and Hac Tao Hacker in the gallery)
After the Dàofěi was stripped I rebased and reprimed him with black, I then did a dark grey drybrush all over followed by a light grey drybrush on the servo fibres. I then applied my first layer of dark turquoise the to the servo fibres.
The next step was to create the palette I would be using to do the servo fibres, this was my base colour of turquoise with white added for a further 3 different shades of turquoise.
The next steps are all using the drybrushing technique, I started to drybrush the first highlight of turquoise.
I then did the same again for the next shade up.
And finally again drybrushing the brightest layer.
This step didn’t require me to be particularly neat as drybrushing helps to create a glow effect on the armour near the servo fibres. After this final drybrush highlight I went back with the original dark turqoise colour and put it in the crevices just to give it some depth.
Back to the base colours
Once the servo fibres were done it was time to start blocking in the base colours, this time doing it differently to my first attempt. I painted the braid with a dark red and put the white on the shoulder pads and the MULTI rifle casing.
Once the braid was dry I applied a wash of earthrax earthshade to bring out the detail of the braid.
While the braid was drying I blocked in the base colour for the pistol holster with a light brown.
The pistol holster was then given the same treatment with earthrax earthshade to give it shading. After this I started to paint the glow in the exhausts in armour using the same turquoise layers that I used for the servo fibres, I also used this for the eyes too.
After this I painted the white part of the helmet and applied a black wash/glaze all over the armour. This had a double effect of darkening the armour while retaining some of the grey drybrushing highlights and it also dulled down where the turquoise had been drybrushed onto the armour to make it look like a natural glow.
I also did some simple highlights on the pistol holster while the armour was drying.
The Sword, MULTI rifle and armour.
I then began the task of painting the sword, MULTI rifle and armour. The MULTI rifle was simply painting a dark grey for the body of the rifle followed by lighter grey highlights as you can see below. The armour was also highlighted with a simple dark grey which you can just about see.
For the sword the first thing I did was actually paint the sword with a few layers of white. When this was dry I painted a layer of dark turquoise over the white.
The best way to describe how I painted the sword from here is using this picture below that I found online, I followed this method with the turquoise palette I had made and split the sword into 3 sections. The lower, mid and top of the sword. The lower area had 1 dark and 1 light side, the middle section were both a midtone of turquoise, and the top section again was 1 dark and 1 light side again but opposite this time.
The effect of that technique can be seen here in it’s early stages.
Painting the sword was then a series of layering each of the different sections until I was happy that they were light/dark enough. I made a wash with water and turquoise to occasionally make everything the same hue as I went along so that it didn’t look too ‘blocky’.
The final highlights to the sword were using almost pure white with just a tiny bit of turquoise added, highlighting the point and tip of the sword and also along the edge.
The last parts to paint were the sword hilt and handle, the base, the armour and highlights to the braid, all of these are in the photos below.
The sword hilt and handle were a simple dark grey with light grey highlights.
The base had further light grey highlights drybrushed on, I then used brown to add dirt to the base and washed it with earthrax earthshade and then drybrushed light brown highlights.
The armour was highlighted further with light grey highlights.
The braid was highlighted with a lighter red and then orange. The spike on the end of the braid was also painted with grey.
Finished! For now…
Once all of this was done I considered the model finished. I did paint this model a lot faster than I usually do so I might go back and just do some further touch ups and neaten things up a bit. For now though it’s certainly decent enough for the tabletop!
I hope you enjoyed this brush time and found it useful or helpful and gave you inspiration! It’s amazing what you can do with just some simple techniques of drybrushing and use washes and shades, this model was painted in about 5 hours from start to finish.